Introduction
The Isle of Where? The Isle of Man is a small island (roughly 32 miles long by 11 miles across) in the north Irish Sea, located about halfway between the Lake District of England and Northern Ireland. It’s a self-governing British dependency, and the Manx are British citizens. However, it’s not part of the UK or the EU. However, it is part of the UK’s Common Travel Area, so travel between Man and the UK is free of any border control. I went via a flight on now-defunct airline Flybe out of Manchester in September 2017, but there are a number of flights in, and the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company offers ferry service from a number of ports.
How did I wind up there? I had meetings in Atherston (England) the first week in September 2017, and then meetings outside Paris the third week. I had to find something to do with the intervening week, and for some reason I’ve always wanted to visit the Isle of Man. So I did.
At one time, the small island had at least nine distinct railways, along with a number of funiculars. There’s a great Youtube animation of Manx railway changes by year I recommend for anyone wanting to understand the where and when of the island’s rail system.
- Manx Electric Railway (1893-present): Operates 17 miles of electrified double-track 3ft. trolley line from Derby Castle (at the north end of Douglas) along the east coast of the island to Ramsey. Nationalized in 1957 along with the Snaefell Mountain Railway, and continues operating today.
- Snaefell Mountain Railway (1895-present): Operates 5 miles of electrified 3’6″ double gauge track from Laxey (on the Manx Electric) to the summit of Snaefell, the highest moutain on the island. Became part of the Manx Electric Railway Company in 1902, and was nationalized in 1957. Continues operating today.
- Isle of Man Railway (1870-present): The Isle of Man Railway constructed its first line, from Douglas to Peel, in 1873, and its second from Douglas to Port Erin in 1874. Absorbed the Manx Northern in 1904. All of its lines were 3′ gauge and steam powered. At its largest, had roughly 47 miles of trackage. The Douglas-Peel and former Manx Northern St. Johns-Ramsey lines were abandoned in 1974. The remaining Douglas-Port Erin line was nationalized in 1978, and continues to operate today.
- Manx Northern Railway (1878-1904): Built a 3′ gauge line from from St. John’s, on the IOMR’s Douglas-Peel line, to Ramsey in 1878-1879, and a small branch from St. John’s to Foxdale in 1883. The MNR became part of the Isle of Man Railway system in 1904.
- Groudle Glen Railway (1896-1962, 1982-present): Operates 3/4 of a mile of 2′ gauge trackage from Lhen Coan (below Groudle) to Sea Lion Rocks, on the cliff-side above the eastern coastline. Built in 1893 to connect tourists at the Groudle Glen Hotel to various attractions on the coastal headlands. Abandoned 1962. Rebuilt and restored thanks to preservation-minded volunteers since 1982, and still operates today.
- Douglas Bay Horse Tramway (1876-present): Operates 1.6 miles of 3′ gauge double track along the Douglas seaside promenade, connecting the sea ferry terminal on the south end with Derby Castle on the north end. Unique in that the motive power is still draft horses. Currently the most endangered of the still-operating lines, as the city of Douglas threatened to shut the line down in 2016 and is now looking at single tracking and/or shortening it in redeveloping the promenade.
- Upper Douglas Cable Tramway (1896-1929): A 3′ gauge cable car line built to complement the horse tramway lines. The line followed a U-shaped route up and down the steep Douglas hillside between the Broadway and Clock Tower terminals on the promenade. Abandoned 1929.
- Douglas Southern Electric Tramway (1896-1939): The only standard gauge line on the island, the route consisted of 4.5 miles of electrified track between the south end of Douglas and the resort town of Port Soderick. The line was single track. The line was abandoned in 1939 after tourist traffic fell off.
- Great Laxey Mine Railway (1823-1929, 2004-present): A 19″ gauge mine railway that connected the workings of the Great Laxey Mine to the ore washing/sorting areas at Laxey. Originally worked by ponies, the line converted to steam power in 1877. The mine was abandoned in 1929, and the above-ground railway was scrapped in the 1930s. In the 1970s, an archeological survey found an entire ore train intact underground. Using the ore wagon restoration as a starting point, volunteers rebuilt the above ground section between 2000-2004 and it still operates today.
- Funiculars – Yes, technically these qualify as railroads. The Isle of Man had quite a few given its small size:
- The Port Soderick Cliff Lift (1900-1939): Constructed in 1900 to 4′ gauge (recycled/moved from the Falcon Cliff Lift in Douglas) to connect the resort town of Port Soderick with the end of the Douglas Southern Electric Railway on the hillside above town.
- The Douglas Head Incline Railway (1900-1954): Constructed in 1900 to 4′ gauge to connect the ship dock at Douglas Head to the Douglas Southern Electric Railway on the cliffside above.
- The Falcon Cliff Lift (1887-1900, 1927-1990): Built to connect the Douglas Promenade with the Falcon Cliff Hotel some 250′ above. The original line was 4′ gauge and powered by a small engine, and was dismantled and sent to Port Soderick in 1900. The second was built in 1927 to 5′ gauge and electrified, and operated until 1990.
Manx Electric Railway
The Manx Electric Railway is a 17.75 mile, double track, 3′ gauge interurban electrified railway that runs up the eastern coast of the Isle of Man. Initially, the line was called the Douglas and Laxey Coast Electric Tramway Company, and construction of the system between Derby Castle (the north end of the Douglas promenade) and Groudle Glen occurred in 1893. By 1894 the road reached Laxey, and by 1899 was completed into the center of Ramsey.
The line’s construction outpaced its revenue, however, and the line defaulted on its debt and was liquidated around 1902. A group of British investors bought the assets of the D&LCET as well as the Snaefell Railway, and joined them together as the Manx Electric Railway Company.
In the post-WWII era, the line struggled for ridership and was eventually was nationalized in 1957. Since then it’s been administered under the Department of Infrastructure, and is now one of four heritage railways owned and operated by the Isle of Man government (Manx Electric, Snaefell, the Isle of Man Railways line Douglas-Port Erin, and most recently the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway).
Until 1998, the MER offered year-round service, but now operates seasonally from March to November when most tourists are on the island and use the line. Buses provide faster, more comfortable, and more reliable service between Douglas and Ramsey for workaday public transportation. (Even I’m guilty of using them once, despite being a die-hard railfan. Buses have padded seats, 1890s trams do not.)
As a note for those not versed in tram terminology, I’ll be using terms like “toastrack” and “saloon” to describe the cars. If you’re like me before this trip and have no idea what any of that means, here’s a quick guide:
- “Toastrack” – So named because the seating arrangement resembles a rack for holding toast. Full-width seats run across the car, and entry/exit to the seats is made through the car sides. These come in open top and roofed varieties.
- “Saloon” – Cars with internal seats and aisles, and doors on the ends. Most are one aisle down the middle, rows of seats on both sides perpendicular to that aisle. Some have bench seats lengthwise along the car and an aisle. These come in all sorts of weird variants like “winter saloon” and “vestibuled”/”unvestibuled”, but I’m just going off what the rosters say on these. I’m not nearly enough of a tram boffin to be able to positively tell you what differentiates one from the next.
- “Tunnel Cars” – Cars that originally had long bench seats lengthwise along the sides, with an aisleway down the middle. For the MER, that’s cars 4-9. These are variants of Saloons.
![MER #5, one of the 1894 cars, finishes up its run into Derby Castle under the famous "Electric Railway" sign on the hillside.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-1/2335918363.jpg)
![The Manx Electric's very interesting ticket office at Douglas / Derby Castle, along with #5 headed out on a late afternoon northbound run.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-21/1275052454.jpg)
![The Irish Sea can unleash a brutal pounding on the Douglas seawall. There's a reason that it's an enormous structure.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-13/3804650571.jpg)
![At Derby Castle, the south end of the Manx Electric shares a terminal with the north end of the Douglas Bay Horse Tram (who calls the location Strathallan). Here's car 5 with a roofed toastrack trailer attached getting ready to head north.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-5/70150908.jpg)
![Car #6 comes up from the shops to pick up trailer #41 for its trip north. #6 was built in 1894, whereas trailer #41 is a 1930 build to replace trailers lost in the Laxey carhouse fire.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-17/1398013563.jpg)
![Between Derby Castle (Douglas) and Laxey, the road and railway are frequently right next to each other. Here's #22 and trailer just out of Derby.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-8/3372563823.jpg)
![Walking a bit further, up from the last shot, we meet #5 and trailer headed down the hill through a residential neighborhood.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-9/4085818879.jpg)
![Between Derby Castle and Groudle, the line tops out on a high point, overlooking the sea far below. If I were to walk another hundred feet and look over on the cliffs, you'd see the Groudle Glen's Sea Lion Rocks station way out there.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-10/2666152520.jpg)
![The easiest and most convenient way to get to Groudle is via the Manx Electric, just as has been done for 124 years now.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-001/1919929310.jpg)
![My transportation up from Douglas that morning (MER #6 and trailer) meets my transportation to the top of Snaefell (SMR #1) at the Laxey station. While they share a platform, the two railways have different gauges.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-3/2235035885.jpg)
![North of the Laxey station, the road and railway go over a tremendous fill over the Laxey River and the Great Laxey Mine Railway](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-6/3636206309.jpg)
![The very north end of the line is now this small platform in Ramsey. Originally the line ran another few hundred yards into the Ramsey Tram Station, but that trackage is being removed.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/mer-14/3040432935.jpg)
The Manx Electric Railway Museum
For a few hours on Sunday every week, the MER has a small museum located at Derby Castle that’s open for a few hours every Sunday afternoon in the summer season. It was one of those things that I scheduled other activities around, because I had exactly one shot at it. The weather was ugly (rainy, blustery, and generally cold) on Sunday morning, so I just slept in and then hit up the museum first thing when it opened at noon. From there I rode up to Laxey, killed some time, and then came back and did the Groudle Glen Railway once the weather improved a bit.
![The museum itself is basically the width of a single trolley car stall. There's quite a bit packed in here, however.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-2/1510963585.jpg)
![Since the MER took over the Snaefell Mountain Railway in1904, there are bits of both in the museum. Here's one of the original Snaefell car controllers that was replaced in the 1970s.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-3/3416227690.jpg)
![One of the interesting items to an electrical nerd like myself was this early welder. It's a motor-generator set that takes 550VDC trolley line power on one side and turns it into 100A welding current on the other side.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-4/638876908.jpg)
![This is one of the original 1893 dynamos from the Derby Castle power station. Clearly not big enough for generating traction power, my guess is that this either generated lighting power or excitation power for the main generators. These were belt driven, and would have been out of service by 1935 when the MER switched to utility grid power.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-15/2415406974.jpg)
![The big meter on the left is a Mather & Platt ammeter, and given its range from 0-160A, I'm guessing it was for measuring trolley line current draw. The ball in the middle is part of the trolley wire hanger system. The thing on the right looks like a battery rest insulator.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-7/1678727022.jpg)
![Another piece of vintage advertising for the railway, along with a rotor out of a traction motor sitting on the wood platform below.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-8/1580187454.jpg)
![Sure, you've seen trolley wire suspenders before, but look closely - this is a section break with two little insulators holding the isolated chunk in the middle.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-10/476353657.jpg)
![Outside, there's an cut-off piece of a truck showing an early axle-hung traction motor. No idea what car this would have come from.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-9/3485448661.jpg)
![My understanding is that the museum site is near where the original 1893 steam power station would have been located. Today, this is the rather unremarkable power delivery mechanism, where the Manx utility grid feeds the railway.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-11/274797913.jpg)
![Normally you can't walk back into the yards for understandable health and safety reasons. However, the sidewalk to the museum goes right past the front of the car shed, so they can't really object to a few quick pictures.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/merm-14/45030912.jpg)
The Snaefell Mountain Railway
The Snaefell Mountain Railway is a 3’6″ railway built in 1895 for sight-seers to reach the top of Snaefell, the highest peak on the Isle of Man. The line connects with the Manx Electric Railway at the Laxey station and then winds its way nearly 12 miles and 2000′ feet higher to reach the summit station. While the line has a nearly 10% ruling grade, it’s an adhesion railway – no racks involved.
“But wait!” you’re thinking, “I see a center rail on that thing! Isn’t that a rack system?”
Nope. The center rail is what’s known as the Fell Mountain Railway System, invented in the 1860s by British engineer John Barraclough Fell. Originally it was designed to provide additional traction from a set of wheels clamped on the sides of the center rail, much like a rack railway would use the rack and pinion. However, the Snaefell Mountain Railway only ever used it for braking going downhill. On each car was a set of wheels which would hold the car on the tracks, and also brake shoes in a clamp configuration around the Fell rail. While descending the incline, the clamp could be engaged by the driver to provide additional or emergency braking.
![A shot looking down at some newly rebuilt Snaefell's track, showing the Fell rail running up the middle with its elevated brackets. Sorry it's a bit blurry - it was a rainy, foggy, cold day, so there wasn't much light to work with.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/fell-3/637819776.jpg)
The line still operates using five of the original six tramway cars delivered in 1895. Car 5 burned in 1970 and was basically rebuilt from the frame up, so it’s the least original of any of the cars still in service. Car 3 no longer exists except as a pile of parts at Derby Castle. It was destroyed in a runaway accident on Mar 30, 2016, where it wasn’t properly secured at the summit and took off down grade, derailed just above the Bungalow road crossing, and was destroyed.
That’s not to say the cars operate with 1890s-vintage systems, however. All of the cards all have been rebuilt and modernized over the years in terms of their electromechanical systems, though most (except #5) retain their original bodies. They all received upgraded and modernized electrical systems in the late 1970s, including retrofitting new electrical gear from retired tram cars from Aachen (Germany). This added cars dynamic (resistive) braking in addition to the regular friction brakes and the Fell brake, relegating the Fell rail to emergency use status.
I was a little concerned that I wouldn’t get to ride the line. Another runaway had occurred just weeks before I arrived on the island. On August 4, 2017, car #2 lost its dynamic brakes with passengers aboard, reportedly due to low air pressure. The car ran through the Bungalow crossing at around 44 mph, which is normally (at that time) 12 mph territory. Fortunately the crew used the Fell brake and brought the car to a stop shortly thereafter. (No, I don’t quite understand that either – it seems dynamic brakes should work as long as there’s excitation current and a resistor grid, and air pressure should have nothing to do with it. Perhaps the contactors that change power routing are pneumatic?) Service was suspended until August 12th, but fortunately while I was there, they were running again. That wouldn’t last, however – the Health & Safety folks closed the railway down a week later, on September 25th, 2017.
Note: As of 2019, the cars have now all been outfitted with a fourth, fail-safe brake – an electromagnetic brake shoe slipper that grabs the railhead using magnetic force and brings the vehicle to a stop.
![My transportation up from Douglas that morning (MER #6 and trailer) meets my transportation to the top of Snaefell (SMR #1) at the Laxey station. While they share a platform, the two railways have different gauges.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-3/469901723.jpg)
![Looking north at the Laxey station grounds. The Snaefell railway is on the far left, and you can see it start up the hill in the background.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-4/1155161976.jpg)
![A pretty typical view along the line as it snakes up the southern side of the Laxey River valley. This was taken looking out the back window of my tram headed up at about the halfway point. The small building below the track is the line's original powerhouse, now disused.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-1/1763250363.jpg)
![Here's car #1 sitting in front of the summit station. Within the last ten minutes, the fog has rolled in and it's now raining and cold. Note the unusual bow-style collectors on top the car instead of trolley poles. These are used apparently because the winds up here will get the trolley wire bouncing and can knock off a conventional trolley pole.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-6/2730866673.jpg)
![Once all the downbound passengers are loaded up, SMR #1 heads back into the fog, watched by a couple railfans and some oblivious sheep.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-8/2097751693.jpg)
![Well, that's one way to build a variable wye switch. I can't say as I've ever seen anything like it before.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-5/2119682024.jpg)
![It almost feels like home as rapidly as the weather changes. I went in the summit house for some tea and food, and by the time I came out the fog had cleared. Now it's sunny, windy, and cold.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-7/4130620379.jpg)
![A view from the top of Snaefell, once the fog had blown through. This is looking northwest, where you can see all the way to the edge of the island and off into the Irish Sea.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/smr-11/3854257458.jpg)
The Groudle Glen Railway
About three miles north of Douglas, on the eastern short of the Isle of Man, lies a small railway that refers to itself as “the line that goes uphill to the sea” – and it’s absolutely correct about that. It’s little in every sense of the word – 2ft gauge and less than a mile long, running from Lhen Coan deep in Groudle Glen uphill to Sea Lion Rocks, the terminal station high on the cliffs above the sea. But the line has has a hundred and twenty four years of history as I write this, and it’s now cared for by a fantastic group of volunteers who have recreated much of what the railway was in its heyday before World War I. Meet the Groudle Glen Railway.
The history of the Groudle Glen Railway goes back to the 1890s, when local businessman Richard Maltby Broadbent leased the area around the Groudle River, intending to develop it as a tourist attraction. He first opened his hotel on the site in July 1893, and only two months later the hotel was connected back to Douglas not only by road but now by the newly opened Manx Electric Railway just out the front door. Walking paths along the river were built through the Glen, and the tourists came.
In 1895, the small zoo was constructed at the coastal end of the Glen to further entice visitors. A small rocky cove was dammed and blocked off with an iron grate, and six sea lions were imported from California (5-6 more didn’t survive transport, depending on the account). Another cage was built on the far side of the cove, with two polar bears housed within. Visitors could look down on the sea lions from a rickety iron bridge that connected the Glen side of the cove with the polar bear enclosure. Eventually two brown bear cubs, chained to prevent their escape, were added so that visitors could have their photos taken with them. By any modern standard, it was bleak, cramped and appalling for the animals, but in the Victorian era it proved immensely popular. A two-foot gauge railway was constructed almost immediately in the winter of 1895-1896 to shuttle visitors from near the hotel – at a spot in the Glen known as Lhen Coan – down to the headlands to visit the attractions. The line would be just slightly under a mile long, have a single passing siding, and would become known as the Groudle Glen Railway.
The railway opened to the public on May 23, 1896 using a tiny 2-4-0T named “Sea Lion” and three passenger coaches. Nine years later, to accommodate the large number of visitors, a second locomotive – another diminutive 2-4-0T aptly named “Polar Bear” – and more coaches were added. Business boomed, with summer days seeing up to 40 trips over the short route. Operations continued until World War I, when both the zoo and railway were closed for the duration of the war.
It took a couple years after the war ended, but in 1920 the railway and zoo reopened, albeit without the polar bears. The steam locomotives were shot, having been run hard for decades. The glen’s new owner, Alfred Lusty, decided to replace them with a pair of 0-4-0 battery-powered locomotives bearing the same names as their steam predecessors. Both proved to be troublesome contraptions, prone to derailing. After one took an unexpected excursion over the hillside, they were made into 2-4-2s. The underlying technology, though, just wasn’t up to the task, with battery technology being relatively primitive in that era. Both steam engines were returned to the manufacturer in 1926 for a full overhaul, and by the end of the 1920s, the battery locomotives headed for the scrap heap. Steam once again ruled the line through the 1930s.
With the start of WWII in 1939, the zoo and railway were once again shuttered. The zoo’s closure was permanent this time, with the sea lions released into the open ocean. The railway, on the other hand, slowly restarted operations once again in 1950. A landslide under the right of way had left the track impassible between the headlands siding and Sea Lion Rocks, but irregular operations were made using Polar Bear between Lhen Coan and the end passable track until 1962. At that point, it looked to be the end of the small railway. Both steam engines were removed and the facilities were slowly removed, vandalized (apparently one coach wound up going down the hill on its side), stolen, or just allowed to fall into disrepair.
In 1982, the Isle of Man Steam Railway Supporters’ Association undertook restoring the tiny line. By 1986, the line from Lhen Coan to the landslide was once again operating. In 1987, Sea Lion was returned to service following a complete restoration. By 1992, rails once again reached the original terminus at the cove. Volunteers began construction of a replacement station at Sea Lion Rocks in 1999, with the interior finally completed in 2003. In 2010, the station was upgraded to include restrooms and power, so that it could serve a tea room for visitors. Beautiful new hardwood coaches were constructed in 2014-2016. Currently, the line is currently building a modern replica of 2-4-0T “Polar Bear” that will be known as “Brown Bear”, since the original is owned by the Amberley Working Museum in West Sussex, UK.
For visitors, the railway typically operates a very limited schedule – typically Sundays and some Wednesdays. Be sure to check their website for details.
![The Groudle Glen Railway can be sneaking along the cliffs in the lower left part of the shot. I didn't even know about the line until I spotted it from the MER trolley my first day.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-000/162632087.jpg)
![The easiest and most convenient way to get to Groudle is via the Manx Electric, just as has been done for 124 years now.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-001/160415080.jpg)
![This is the station for the trolley - the Groudle stop, directly across from the hotel that started it all back in 1893. (I understand that as of 2019, the former hotel building is slated for demolition.)](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-002/3661282558.jpg)
![On the hike down to Lhen Coan to catch the train, you'll pass this water wheel. This was the water pumphouse for the hotel above. My understanding is that it's since been restored.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-004/3089380263.jpg)
![At the end of the footpath, you'll come to Lhen Coan station. Most of what you see here has been carefully reconstructed by volunteers. Even the distinctive train shed is a reconstruction, after the original was scrapped in 1979. Sea Lion, on the other hand, is vintage 1895.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-006/1081423920.jpg)
![An interesting bit in the yard - an Isle of Man Railways switchstand. Note the "IMR" in the base casting.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-006a/1846929307.jpg)
![Inside one of the beautiful hardwood coaches on the short trip over the line. These are authentic recreations of the line's original cars. If you're wondering, the wheel is the handbrake.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-007/2570202065.jpg)
![Here's the train at the end of the line - Sea Lion Rocks station. The engine has been serviced and run around the coachs, and is about to head back to Lhen Coan.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-010/1056455265.jpg)
![The station building - reconstructed between 1999-2003 based on the original building - is now a tea room and a small museum/visitors center.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-012/2957578621.jpg)
![Looking across at where the bear enclosure used to be, along the rugged eastern shoreline of the Isle.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-013/567875478.jpg)
![A better look down at the former site of the "zoo". The sea lions were in the cove to the left of the concrete dam in the water below, and the bears were kept over in the concrete structure at the top right. A spindly iron bridge went over the chasm. The center pier was still there in 2011, but was gone by 2017.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-014/2452808014.jpg)
![Sea Lion, the line's original 2-4-0T built back in 1895, is still in service today. Never run on the original railway after the WWII shutdown, the engine was preserved on the Isle and was carefully restored in 1987.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-015/61007781.jpg)
![The outsides of one of the wooden coaches at the Sea Lion Rocks platform. Note the link-and-pin couplings.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/gg-018/584318622.jpg)
Isle of Man Railway
The Isle of Man Railway was the most extensive railway on the island, eventually having three main routes totaling some 47 route miles. The original route, from Douglas to Peel, opened in July 1873. The Douglas-Port Erin line, which we’ll see below, opened a year later in the summer of 1874.
In 1904, the IMR took over the Manx Northern Railway, which connected with it at St. John’s on the Douglas-Peel line. The Manx Northern had built a line from St. John’s to Ramsey in 1878, and a mining branch from St. John’s to Foxdale in 1886 (nominally the Foxdale Railway, but always operated by the MNR). When the two merged, the IMR system reached is maximum size.
The IMR, right up until the end of regular operations in 1965, was not fundamentally a different railway than when service had begun nine decades prior. Because of the unique geographic and economic circumstances of its environs, it never really had to embrace modernization. It was never forced to do so. The island was small and the trips were short. All of its freight wagons were tiny and two-axled, and many dated from the early days of the line. Vacuum brakes, still in use today, weren’t even fitted to all stock until 1927. Its newest motive power was from 1926, but the mass of its fleet was pre-1900, although many had received reboilerings and were all well maintained. The line’s very first locomotive ran right up until the end of regular operations in the 1960s. I suppose there are many other insular examples of railways like this off the beaten path, but from a North American point of view it seems incredibly odd and special.
That’s not to say the line wasn’t extensively used. Regular service was about 4-5 trains per day. In the 1930s, reports have the IMR running as many as a dozen trains each way on each line during the busy summer season. However, as the island’s road system improved in the post-WWII era, the railway’s fortunes declined. Freight was just much more effectively handled by trucks given the island’s tiny size. However, passenger numbers held up well until the late 1950s. In 1957, over a million passengers rode the IMR. It was the last year that number would be reached. By 1960, passenger numbers were so low that winter service ceased on parts of the system. Then on Nov 13, 1965, the railway shut entirely. Nothing at all operated in 1966, save apparently a train for the TT races.
The Manx Government set up a committee to study the issue, which came back with a recommendation that at least Douglas to Peel be maintained as a tourist attraction. Archibald Kennedy, 7th Marquess of Ailsa, stepped in and agreed to lease the system for 21 years, with an option to exit the agreement in five years if he could not turn the system’s fortunes around. He opened the system with an ambitious timetable of operations in 1967, operating all three main lines. In addition, the railway tried to bring back freight service, experimenting with intermodal and fuel shipments. Service was cut back in September when passenger counts failed to materialize, and the operation struggled through 1968 with similarly reduced schedules.
By the end of 1968, it was clear that the bold rescue effort had failed. The last passenger train to Ramsey ran on Sep 6, 1968, and the last train to Peel ran the following day. Neither route would see another revenue passenger train. The lsat revenue train of any type, an oil train headed from Peel to the Ramsey power station, ran in April 1969. Both routes would be scrapped out in 1974-1975.
The Douglas-Port Erin line fortunately had a slightly different fate. It continued to operate into 1969 and 1970, though unsustainably, under the lease agreement thanks to a partnership with another organization called the Isle of Man Victorian Steam Railway Co. In 1971, Kennedy exercised the five year option to exit the lease. From there, the Victorian Steam Railway Co. partnered with the Tourism Board for the additional funding needed to operate the line. By 1975, the government shut off the funding, and operations were restricted from Port Erin to Castletown using another small private grant. In 1976 they were back as far east as Ballasalla, and in 1977 they finally returned to Douglas.
Finally, in 1978, the government realized they were on the brink of losing an invaluable historic asset, and remnants of the IMR were sold to the government for £250,000. The line was then run by the Manx Electric Railway Board, which eventually became the Heritage Railways department of today.
Today’s Douglas-Port Erin operation looks unsurprisingly different from the line did during peak years. While certain compromises have been made to modernity and safety (such as crossing lights instead of manual gates), the railway still runs with its century old locomotives and cars over the same route they’ve trundled their entire existance. The line and equipment are in exceptional shape these days, and it’s clear that this unique little capsule of railway history is valued and will be for years to come.
I took a day trip over to Port Erin and back while I was there. One of the key things I wanted to do was visit the railway museum next to the station, in the old railway goods shed. It was founded in 1975 to save a few of the artifacts rapidly disappearing as the railways were being scrapped. It’s open most days that the railway operates, and is an excellent way to spend an hour or two in Port Erin.
Once I’d finished looking about in the museum, I wandered over to one of the local pubs for some lunch, wandered around town for a bit, and decided that it was a pretty nice day except right by the ocean. A good day for a quick hike, in fact. Instead of re-boarding the train to Douglas as Port Erin, I walked down to Port St. Mary, the next station halt east. I thought about walking to Castletown to catch the meet instead, but seeing as I was getting on the last train of the day back to Douglas I didn’t really to chance missing it.
![A look at the Douglas station platform. The gate was open, so I just wandered out. When I came back to ride the next day, there was a sign limiting the platform to ticket holding passengers, so I rather suspect I wasn't supposed to do that. Oops, so used to the rest of Europe where you can pretty much roam the platforms without issue.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-4/1768278772.jpg)
![IMR #8, "Fenella" at the Douglas station with a train ready to head west. #8 is an 1894 Beyer Peacock 2-4-0T.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-1/501538768.jpg)
![IMR #12, "Hutchinson", named after company director W.A. Hutchinson. Another 2-4-0T, she was built in 1908 by Beyer Peacock.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-7/364185995.jpg)
![The Port Erin station is undergoing a bit of work. The railway is on the front, and the back side serves as a regional bus depot.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-8/984777513.jpg)
![Shortly after our arrival, #12 has run around the train and is headed back to Douglas with an eastbound run.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-9/2751853645.jpg)
![A look out over the Port Erin coastline. Despite looking like a beautiful day, there's a fiercely cold wind coming off the water.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-14/28255938.jpg)
![One of the main reasons I'd come to Port Erin was to visit the Isle of Man Railway Museum, just across from the station grounds. Inside the IMR Museum, one of the first pieces of equipment you see is locomotive #6 "Peveril". An 1875 Beyer Peacock 2-4-0, #6 was retired for good in 1960.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-2/2675952267.jpg)
![Of course, being an insulator collector, my eye was instantly drawn to these four - in particular the red Bullers. Somehow I don't think these are quite native - the dryspot on the right is marked "LNER" for London & North Eastern Railway.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-1/1288358685.jpg)
![The other locomotive housed in the museum is the last steam locomotive that IMR purchased - #16, Mannin. Built in 1926, she's another 2-4-0T and was supposedly the most powerful locomotive that IMR ever owned.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-4/3367954712.jpg)
![This is "two plank" (referring to the side height) side dump car M.78, built in 1925. They were intended for ballast service, but were often found hauling freight due to their versatility.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-8/3245410569.jpg)
![Coach F.75 is tucked in between Mannin and G.19 where it's tough to get a picture. F.75 is a "pairs" coach, built from the bodies of two smaller1873-1874 era 4-wheeled coaches (in this case A.12 and C.9) were mounted on a single steel frame and put on 4-wheel trucks.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-7/1164647888.jpg)
![This is goods wagon G.19. This one was built in 1921 out of the frame of 1873 brake van E.3. They used for general freight and often attached to the back end of passenger trains. This is one of three G-class cars to exist.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-6/1854871505.jpg)
![This is IMR F.36, otherwise known as the "Queens Coach". It earned that name as it was reconfigured to haul Queen Elizabeth in 1963, and then to haul Queen Elizabeth II in 1972.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iomm-9/1158421661.jpg)
![It being a generally nice day once you got away from the winds of the coast, I decided I'd hike up to the next stop rather than boarding the train at Port Erin. The next stop east on the line is Port St. Mary. This elaborate brick station was built around 1900. The station building itself is still owned by the railway, but apparently empty.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/iom-11/1068435501.jpg)
I didn’t include many “out on the line” pictures from the IMR. It’s a tough line to photograph even if you have a car or bike, just because it runs between tight fences and hedgerows for much of the journey, and is typically rather far from roads. Plus, you’ll only get a couple trains a day either direction. On foot, as I was, I’d say it’s tough to impossible to get many decent action shots if you only have a day or two to devote to it. If you were sufficiently clever and athletic (which I fail a bit at both), you could probably string together bus transportation and a bit of hiking and get it done. I’d say at the end, a car or at least a bike would be a better option if you want photos out on the line.
Great Laxey Mine and Railway
The mountains between Laxey and Snaefell were rich in mineral wealth, primarily lead and zinc ores, but with a significant minor fraction of copper, silver, and iron. Records of lead mining by prospectors or small groups go back well into the 1700s. A particularly rich deposit, located just above Laxey proper, was located in the early 1800s and the Kirk Lonan Mining Association was set up to work the mine in 1822. This would become the Great Laxey Mine in 1862. Shafts would eventually reach down 2200 feet into the earth, following rich veins of ore. At its peak around 1875, the mine employed 800+ miners and turned out 2400 tons of lead, 12000 tons of zinc, and 500 tons of copper annually, making it one of the richest mines in the British empire. In fact, this single mine was responsible for approximately half of the UK’s entire zinc production.
The mine always had water problems. Even in the early years, a 1833 flood from the river coming down the valley flooded the mine works and it took until early 1834 to dry them out again. The Isle of Man has no coal reserves, so conventional steam engine-powered pumps would have been expensive to operate on imported fuel. The solution designed in 1854 by Robert Casement was an enormous water wheel, harnessing the power of the stream that flowed down through the mine works and so frequently caused it trouble anyway.
The Laxey Wheel, otherwise nicknamed “Lady Isabella” after the wife of the Lieutenant Governer, was 72.5′ in diameter. Water was collected in a cistern far uphill, and piped down and up the top of the tower. From there, it flowed into buckets which turned the great wheel. The wheel then turned a crank, which transmitted power via a long wooden shaft some 600 feet back to the “engine shaft”, where a rocker arm turned the power shaft 90 degrees and sent it deep into the earth, where it powered a series of 7 pumps that could lift 250 gallons per minute out of the depths of the mine.
Unlike many mines, there was no nearby smelter. Remembering that the Man has no known coal reserves, it was cheaper to export the ore than import the fuel. However, the mine did have the early 1800s equivalent of a concentrator to minimize the amount of worthless rock being shipped. This was known as the “washing floor”, and was located down the Laxey River valley from the mine itself. Starting in 1827, ore would be hauled out of the mine’s main adit on a horse-drawn 19″ gauge railway down to the washing floor. At that point, the ore would be dumped into a large ore bunker to be processed.
The processing was highly manual, and employed about 300 people in the peak years. The first step involved manually picking out any waste rock by hand and discarding it. From there, the ore was fed to a crusher (powered by the Laxey water wheel) and once again, the waste rock was removed by hand from the crushed output. At that point, a “jigger” would sort the ore out by its greater density. Fine material from that process would then go through final step, known as a “buddle“, would separate out fines that had metals in them from waste rock. Once all the ore had been concentrated and the waste rock discarded, the ore was then hauled down to waiting ships by horse cart.
By the 1870s, the mine sought to increase the efficiency by replacing the ponies pulling the ore carts from the mine to the washing floor with a pair of small steam locomotives – Ant and Bee. In order to work the tiny mining adit, these engines were minuscule. They resemble a horizontal 55-gallon drum on two axles, with a footplate on the rear for the operator. It’s hard to find a locomotive that even the IMR’s small 2-4-0Ts would look down upon, but these two would fit the bill. These two were tiny but mighty, though. Each could pull 6-7 ore carts out of the mine and down to the ore hoppers, and they worked so well that they remained in use right up until the mine ceased operation in 1929.
Unfortunately, in the early 1930s, everything was scrapped. The mining equipment, the railway, the engines, and the cars. The wheel was only preserved because local businessman Edwin Kneale purchased and preserved it. The Manx government purchased it from Mr. Kneale in 1965, and turned over care of the wheel to Manx National Heritage in 1989.
The railway, on the other hand, follows a somewhat different story. Everything really was scrapped in the 1930s. Well, everything above ground anyway. Apparently in the 1970s one of the adits was cleared out for some archeological work, and a complete rake of six ore wagons was found. The wagons were removed and restored, and their existence spurred interest in restoring the above-ground section of the line. (Note: the ore wagons on site are not the historic versions, but apparently replicas. The historic wagons are in museums around the island, I’ve read.)
Between 2000-2004, volunteers rebuilt the above-ground line from the washing floors up to near the main adit entrance, a distance of about a quarter mile. Replicas of both Ant and Bee were purchased, and a pair of non-historic carriages were built for passengers. Unfortunately the line only operates on Saturday, and because my flight in on Saturday was significantly late, I didn’t get the chance to visit while they were operating.
![The great wheel in person. I'd seen it from across the valley when I rode the Snaefell Mountain Railway earlier in the week, but it's awe-inspiring to stand next to it.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-1/4104372976.jpg)
![An overview of the Great Laxey Mine property, showing the relationship between all the elements, including the wheel.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-15/3724711004.jpg)
![The back side of the wheel, showing the tower that feeds water to the top, as well as carries the staircase. Tourists have been climbing to the top since the Victorian days.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-2/2289238415.jpg)
![Looking at the crank side of the wheel, showing the connection between the crank, the power shaft, and the connection to the counterweight out front.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-8/781003546.jpg)
![From about halfway up the tower, this is looking at the first knuckle in the power transmission shaft. This first one rides on a giant arm, unlike the rest that sit on small rail wheels.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-6/2671630044.jpg)
![Looking down the power transmission viaduct from the top of the wheel. At the far end is where the rod turns 90 degrees and goes down the Engine Shaft of the mine.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-7/25862584.jpg)
![This is the stone viaduct that carries the horizontal power shaft back to the "Engine Shaft" of the mine.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-3/381974251.jpg)
![This is the entrance to the Old Adit, the original mine entrance from 1823. It's open and stabilized for a few hundred feet, and with a hardhat you can go inside. The power transmission shaft is overhead in the upper left.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-4/3928418300.jpg)
![This is the giant T-rocker arm. Power arrives from the right, as that horizontal beam connects out to the wheel. On the left, not visible because of the foliage, is where the shaft coming up from the mines connects.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-16/408585909.jpg)
![This is the washing floor down in Laxey. Originally the washing floors had a 42' wheel. This is the 50' wheel from the Snaefell mine, which went to Wales in 1908 and came back in 2003. It was restored and installed here in 2006. The old ore chutes are the stone protrusions against the far wall, below the MER train. The 19" mine railway runs on top, and would dump ore down the chutes.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-10/2511890707.jpg)
![The interpretive sign at the washing floors in the Laxey valley. The map at the bottom right may help in orienting yourself in the pictures.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-17/1854180033.jpg)
![In the 1870s, a new set of ore bunkers (called "teams" by the locals) was built on the west side, perpendicular to the old set. The railway was extended along that side to dump ore, and today it serves as the station grounds.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-12/864655322.jpg)
![At the east end is another small shed. The right wall is where the original ore chutes would have been located, and ore cars would have been dumped over the edge.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/glm-13/2719584561.jpg)
Douglas Bay Horse Tramway
It’s tough to choose the most unique or historic line on this island, because they’re all such wonderful little anachronistic oddballs. But if you really forced me, I’d probably pick the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway. There are only a few operating horse-powered tramways left in the world, and most of them are either modern creations or recreations of a tramway that long ago stopped operating. The Douglas Bay Horse Tram is the real deal, having operated every season (except the WWII years) since it was builtin 1876.
The double track 3′ gauge line runs the length of the Douglas promenade, from just outside the Steam Packet Company’s sea terminal on the south end to Strathallan on the north. (Strathallen is the line’s shop and storage depot, and is immediately adjacent to Derby Castle on Manx Electric.) The line is, as it always was, completely powered by draft horses – primarily Clydesdales and Shires these days.
At the time I visited in 2017, it was also probably the most endangered of the island’s lines. While recognized as an important piece of Douglas’ history, it was also a tremendous money sink, estimated to have lost £263,000 in the 2015 season. The Douglas borough government, which has operated the line since 1900, decided they could no longer afford the operation and announced there would not be a 2016 season. Fortunately, the Isle of Man government voted to fund the line’s operation for 2016-2018 on a trial basis. There was also significant pressure during the promenade redevelopment that either the line be single-tracked, or moved out of the way of general traffic. Traffic is already brutal along the Douglas promenade at peak times, and a double track horse tram right down the middle of the road definitely doesn’t help.
It appears that the IoM government now considers the trams an important part of their heritage railway system. In 2019, the tracks were being rebuilt right where they’ve been for decades. They’ve also just completed (as of late March 2020) a new car depot at Strathallan to replace the old, worn out facility. For now, it looks like the Douglas Bay Horse Tram is safe and on a good path for many more years of operation.
![Rain or shine, the trams run. My second day on the island dawned to torrents of rain, high winds, and at times heavy seas. But, I was only here for a few days, so I had to make the best of it.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-9/1712360462.jpg)
![Douglas Bay car #1, a 1913 enclosed saloon style car, is pulled along southbound by an unknown horse.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-6/661350934.jpg)
![Swapping the power. Mark has just come out of the barn, whereas the unknown horse behind is done with his shift and headed back.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-7/3118210418.jpg)
![The horses know the way back to the stable and just seem to go on their own. The stable yard sits back from the promenade's building fronts, and looks decidedly out of place.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-8/4171758442.jpg)
![The old Strathallan car barn. This building was demolished and a modern car depot built in its place in 2019. Fortunately, the new facility retains much of the classic facade's features.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-4/3245638303.jpg)
![At the very north end, the DBHT has this mass of trackwork. The tracks on the left are storage tracks. The track on the right is the end of the mainline and tail of the wye. The track diverging to the bottom left is one leg of the wye that goes into the Strathallan car depot. The track diverting to the far right is where the second mainline track starts.](https://www.ndholmes.com/wp-content/uploads/cache/2020/03/dbh-2/807779653.jpg)
Most everything in this trip report was shot with dad’s Canon 7D II and Canon 24-105mm f/4L. He passed away about six months before this trip. Dad would have loved this place, so it seemed a fitting tribute to take his camera instead of mine.
This work is copyright 2024 by Nathan D. Holmes, but all text and images are licensed and reusable under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike license. Basically you’re welcome to use any of this as long as it’s not for commercial purposes, you credit me as the source, and you share any derivative works under the same license. I’d encourage others to consider similar licenses for their works.